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Clean basic PC

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Freezes and heating can be caused, among other reasons, because of dust inside, fans jamming or causing bad contact. The situation worsens further for those who live near the sea, where the humidity and salt air, mixed with dust, eventually creating oxidation. Oxidation can also occur when the PC is in places cooled air conditioning (moisture + dust).

The dust gets in through the front entrances of the cabinet by suction of cold air into the PC (for example, the product side that has a fan drawing cool air from outside and playing right into the processor), one bay for CD / DVD open, small openings in the front mask (for example, between the covers of the stalls of CD / DVD or space between these units), etc.. It is important to do regular cleaning of the PC to avoid future problems. This is called preventive maintenance. Every 15th of November I depend my micro world, literally getting their hands dirty.The time between cleanings will vary with the environment (heavy or light concentration of dirt / dust) and using the computer.

This tip is a little heavy, no pictures. To start seeing the temperature in the BIOS of the computer. The temperature inside the enclosure can not be more than 15 ° above room temperature. A good margin is between 5 - 10 ° (or less). If it is, it's time to clean up because it is very high. The same goes for the CPU. Temperatures above 50 ° is not good. If your processor works in overclocking, the temperature should be hitting the 70 ° depending on the aggressiveness of the process. It's time to replace the thermal paste. But even if the weather is good, why not do preventive maintenance? To clean the system will be necessary:

  • Knowledge of assembly and maintenance of PCs, in addition to caring for static.

  • At least three brushes (usually use these new brushes for painting). I used three: ½''(12.7 mm), 1''(25.4 mm) and 2''(50.8 mm).

  • At least one screwdriver.

  • A pencil eraser.

  • Grease.

  • Freedom to open the case (eg, warranty time of micro expired).

  • Two hours of free time.

  • Make sure you are not allergic to dust. :-p

In the case of having only one brush, try to use it first and then the plates in the cabinet. The office will be dirtier than the boards, then using the brush first sujaria the office even more plates in the time to clean them. Now for the walkthrough.Get a plastic cup or other container to hold the screws to be removed during assembly.


Disassembling the PC


  1. Place the cabinet on top of a sturdy table and putting the key philips to work, go taking the screws on the side covers. It has offices in which only one side is removable (left), with a plastic cover on the right. This cover gives access to the screws on the CD / DVD, floppy and hard disk. If the top cover is also removable, do it. Remember the static. Touch from time to time in the office or any unpainted metal part.

  2. Disconnect the power cables and data drives, CD / DVD, floppy and hard disk as well as sticks the motherboard and auxiliary power cables (cables that exist in most modern motherboards). Do the same with the stems of the front panel (note the position of the color if no more card manual in hand). Do the same with the power of the rear USB inputs front and rear USB and audio where appropriate. Do not forget to note the position of the wire colors. Do not forget also the connectors for fans (coolers) of the cabinet.

  3. Remove the existing expansion cards (video, modem, network, sound, etc.), while avoiding touching the contacts.Hold them by the side and put them in a safe place. It's a good idea to use anti-static packaging which came packing the plates. In the case of the video card to watch the lock in the existing PCI-E or AGP. In the case of video, sound and network do not need to take the place of chips. Let where they are. =) Just kidding, just to break the ice ... but to leave it in place huh? xD

  4. Remove the CD / DVD, floppy drive (if any) and (s) drive (s) drive (s). Special care when removing the hard drive (or HD, as you prefer). Do not subject to mechanical shock (hitting him somewhere, for example). If it is this very fair in the bay go by pulling it making moves to raise and lower, while that is pulling. Do not pull hard, because the disk can hit with violence in some part or the bottom of the cabinet. Store it in a very safe environment.

  5. Remove the power source and the mask's front office. In some offices the removal of the mask is required for the extraction of the optical drives (CD / DVD). Make sure that the front panel cables and audio / microphone input are disconnected from the motherboard. Enjoy and remove the fan (or fans in some offices) front and rear (or front in some offices).

  6. Remove the memory modules. Although not necessary, in some cases it is desirable to select which module which was in the socket. Going forward I'll explain why. Of course you do not have to do this where he has one module. If you prefer you can remove the modules with the motherboard outside the case.

  7. Finally we remove the motherboard. Here are two possibilities. If the cabinet has a removable right side cover, simply unscrew (after removal of the lid) the plate that holds the motherboard. Then just push to the left of the plate to disengage it from the cabinet. If there is resistance of the plate at this point, check that moved all-in cards and is also removable rear mirrors are screwed, hindering the sliding of the plate. Now in the case of the cabinet with a removable side only, you must then remove the motherboard través extraction of screws. Keep them even with their washers.

  8. Ready. Now look for your PC completely sprawled Drive: CD / DVD over here, HD go, boards here, there coolers, cables and power there, memory modules on the neighbor's house ... xD and the cabinet completely empty, dismantled and dirty, sooo dirty. =) Let us now leave the key philips rest a little and move on to cleaning, starting with the motherboard. In the case of the board be fixed on a sliding plate, the job will be easier to remove the CPU cooler, the processor itself (optional) and memories.

    If the motherboard is mounted inside the cabinet (a cabinet with removable side cover only), the hob on a firm surface, preferably on top of anti-static bag it. If your PC has been purchased already assembled - usually the cases where the motherboard and other components not included with the computer - put it on top of sheets of paper. Do not touch the bottom of the plate. Enjoy and has already started passing the brush at the bottom of the motherboard. In the case of plate fastened to the sliding plate, you need to unscrew the plate from the plate before cleaning the area. At the end of cleaning, re-tighten the plate in the sliding plate, in the case of plates attached directly to the office, please support it on sheets of paper.


Starting cleaning


We will now start the cleaning of plates and the cabinet.

  1. Now exit the cooler to provide for their clearance from both the heatsink and fan of his, besides the exchange of thermal grease. Make sure you have thermal paste (sold houses computer equipment or electronic). Here I am assuming that the User has ideas of assembly and maintenance, so do not explain the steps for removing the CPU cooler. See tutorials on the Internet or books that show how to remove the cooler according to the model of the processor.

  2. Provide some napkins or sheets of paper towel. Ah, if possible also isopropyl alcohol. Let's remove the cooler. Here it is an observation in time to pull the cooler processors that use Socket 754, 939, 940, AM2/AM2 + and AM3: over time the paste dries or elastomer (material commonly used in processor coolers in-a-box ) lose their efficiency due to high temperature, requiring the exchange. The problem is that the processor can be pasted into the cooler because the folder or elastomer.

    The consequence is that the processor can come along with the cooler, as the socket handle only allows contact of the processor pins with the leads of the socket on the motherboard. This does not happen on Intel processors using the socket 775 and higher, since in this case the pins are in the socket. This problem can also occur with cards that use the Socket 370 and 462, but in this case the processor core that could be pasted into the sink cooler. But these cases are very rare, it is easier to happen with the sockets 754 and above used in AMD. This occurs mainly in coolers using elastomer as the material''melts''to reach a certain temperature, hardening again when the cooler cools, or with the PC off.

    In this case I suggest before you connect to the motherboard at the source (and in this decision, of course =), make a little short contacts marked as PWR SW on the motherboard and leave on for a minute or two. This time will be sufficient for the folder or the elastomer are more''soft''with the temperature, allowing the extraction of the cooler with more ease. If the sink has warmed to the point that it can not handle it, use a napkin or piece of kitchen paper. If the processor comes dressed in the sink, keep calm. With a screwdriver taking off to go look for the processor, carefully.

  3. Now use the napkin together with isopropyl alcohol to clean the remains of prisoners elastomer folder or in the sink. Do the same processor. You will not need to get the processor socket, unless it can exchange it for another model. Enjoy and clean the fan cooler with the brush - if you can disassemble the cooler to make it easier to clean the dust from the heatsink and fan.

    Do not apply excessive force on the fan with the brush. Recommend the use of thinner brush to clean the fan CPU cooler. Use the medium brush to clean the inside of the sink fins. After cleaning the fan to engage again in the sink.Now if you are taking the opportunity to replace the processor with a faster, and this is accompanied by a cooler, just install the new chip and then install the new cooler, taking advantage of this elastomer it. If the cooler not elastomer, apply thermal grease on the chip and the heatsink cooler.

  4. Use the medium brush to clean the motherboard. In the corners more difficult (for example, the spaces between the panel connectors ATX) use the small brush. Move the brush in slots (PCI, AGP, CNR, PCI-E, etc.), panel connectors and ATX memory sockets. Do not forget the "playpen" of the processor socket. Avoid applying too much pressure on the brush on the motherboard to avoid the risk of warping a feature, or worse, remove it from a motherboard. This can occur especially in very old plates, since the terminals of components such as capacitors and small coils are weakened with time and temperature. If you have an air sprayer, it can lay hands on him for cleaning. Speaking of air sprayer, do not blow into the slots. Use the brush or sprayer air.

  5. It's time to mount the cooler back on the processor. Apply a thin layer of grease on the processor and the area of his contact with the heatsink cooler. Then install the cooler on the processor, paying attention to the correct process of installation and safety precautions

  6. It's time to install the memory modules back in their sockets. Before use the eraser to clean the contacts of the modules (hold them to the side always). Pass the rubber on both sides of the contacts. Make sure to pass only the rubber contacts, avoiding pressure on the electronic Pecinhas that sit over the contacts of the modules. These Pecinhas may come off if applied under the rubber on them. After the cleaning with rubber use the brush to remove traces of rubber trapped in the modules. Install the modules in their sockets.

    The tip I gave on the association of each module and its corresponding socket happens for a reason: Although rare, a module can work well in a socket and does not work in another. Replacing modules on sockets with the source you have to make sure that they will work normally, after all they were working in these positions.


Test smoke: this test may scare those fans saying "In winning team does not move" or "If it is not broke, do not fix it. In theory a microwave that was working and was subjected to a cleaning should again function normally. But unforeseen events can occur, especially on computers that have never received a cleaning, especially in expansion cards and memory modules, whose contacts have always worked in a certain position. Make sure that the memory sockets and slots are properly cleaned. 

The smoke test is to connect the motherboard to the processor, memory modules (at least one, except in the case of cleaning is being done on computers equipped with the old Pentium 4 with RIMM modules, because this processor uses modules to pairs) and the video card. Before you clean the contacts of the video card the same way you did with the memory modules. Enjoy and take the dust of the plate itself, as well as their fan. 

If the video is in use onboard (even if it uses a real video card), we use the same onboard video. Connect the power supply on board, connect the monitor to the video card, check if the CPU cooler is plugged into the correct input. Then plug the card by making a short terminals PWR SW as indicated on the motherboard. Deu image? The memory is being recognized? Beauty. This test is to make sure that the card is jewel after cleaning. More on that later. Unplug the power of board to continue (be sure to first disconnect the power outlet!). 


  1. Leave now to clean the office and their fans. Use the larger brush (or the sprayer air) to dust these parts. It is interesting to take the case to a more airy, because what comes out of dirt and dust will not be in the comic book.Open source (not do so if it is under warranty) and use the medium brush to clean the inside, taking care of the excessive pressure of the brush on the components of the source.

    A jetted air at source would be better, especially in your fan. After all clean put the power back in their place, and the chassis fans. Watch out for the air flow indicated on one side of the fan according to the position in the cabinet.In general the fans in front (and side) blow air while the rear exit the air. I think the fans will follow a pattern: the side where it is visible to "cover" the motor corresponds to the breath of air, while the side where we see the whole propeller draws in air. The mask to be plastic can be cleaned with a damp cloth. Then mount the mask back to its original position.

  2. Let's go to the last part of the cleanup, which is processed on the expansion cards, optical drives, cables, etc..Make use of rubber to clean the contacts of the expansion cards and brush to get the bulk of the dirt accumulated on them. Finally clean the bench

Ready. The cleaning is done. Let the last part of the tutorial, which is the assembly of the micro. But a coffee break because no one is iron. 


Mounting the micro


We are now assembling the PC. I promise not to extend much. To be honest this is the most rapid.

  1. Start accommodating the motherboard back into the cabinet in accordance with your case (or sliding plate assembly directly at the office. Do not forget to put back the rear ATX panel before mounting the plate back at the office. If the board be mounted directly at the office, consider mounting the fan back then screw the plate.

  2. I suggest first call the stems of the front panel of the speaker, the mirror rear USB and USB inputs and audio front of the cabinet, if any. If you noted the position of the stems, have no difficulty in connecting. If you have not noted in the check motherboard manual how to connect correctly these stems. Special attention to connect the cables from the front USB inputs. It is imperative the correct link these entries.

    While the reversal or wrong connection of the front panel cables can have side effects such as an LED that illuminates one or POWER or RESET button dead, where the USB ports this type of mistake can cost a burning stick, mouse, external hard drive or other USB devices, as well as burning the actual USB controller on the motherboard.In case of doubt consult the motherboard manual.

  3. Connect the IDE cables, SATA and Floppy in their respective connectors on the motherboard. Then install the CD / DVD and hard drive. Depending on the cabinet (size), the installation of these units can only be done before installing the motherboard. But I think the User to go see this disassemble the computer. =) Do not connect power and data on the drives yet.

  4. Install the video card (or connect the monitor plugged into the onboard video if applicable). Take the test again the smoke. Check if the harness and power the motherboard are properly connected. If this time does not connect, at least we have less suspicious. Make sure you have power at the case fans are not spinning. See if your source has a power switch at the rear. You may have forgotten that hung by her. Also make sure the processor fan is properly connected. Remember to have used the screws with their washers to hold the motherboard. Try unplug memory modules, then plug them again. Finally promotes a CLEAR CMOS. See also the activity of the cooler video card if you use real video card.

  5. After solving the test smoke finish the assembly by installing the card too. And again, run the smoke test. A poorly seated card can prevent the PC from booting. Starting with the BIP, OK means that everything is working perfectly.

  6. Connect the power cables and data on the hard disk, floppy drive and the CD / DVD. Watch out for the guidance MA / SL in the case of IDE drives. If there is more of a hard drive or CD / DVD, try to keep a free-stall devices to facilitate the dissipation of heat generated by them. Connect the cables from the cabinet fans on the motherboard (or taken in the power supply if any).

  7. Finally organize the cables from the power supply. It is important to do so, because loose cables cause difficulty in air circulation. At worst a loose cable can lock the processor fan. Do not use rubber bands because they dry out with the heat from inside the case and may burst, releasing the cables, turning the heat problem and the danger of a cable caught on the processor fan or another (the chipset when it has one). Try using plastic straps or thin wire-wrapped, those tie bag of bread. Do not forget the mirrors back. Do not let these cracks open.


The final test


  1. Before closing the office to test. Connect the PC and check the operation of micro, booting the operating system and testing the programs and devices. Everything working? Beauty! Just close the office, checking once again the position of the cable (making sure they are well tied, not forgetting to turn on the fan duct side if available. Finally return the computer back to its place.

  2. If an add-in cards is not responding, remove and replace. Count eradicates memory? Remove and reinstall the modules again. If the tests of the smoke did not error in the memory count, was not to happen this time. After all corrected back to item 4.1.

  3. Work with the computer for a while, then restart and check the temperature in the BIOS, or if you have a monitoring program, make it through it. Now look at the temperature of the system. If you followed all the steps correctly so far the temperature will be lower than found before cleaning.

Well, that's it! The hours are exempt from this task will pay with a PC more stable. And if you have the time, also make a clean sweep in the software of your PC, using the tools of the operating system or programs (Windows) as CCleaner.

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